top of page

Alternative Lawns with Native Grasses

  • Writer: Bob Dahm
    Bob Dahm
  • 1 day ago
  • 6 min read

Bob Dahm, May 20, 2026

 


An Example of an Alternative Lawn with Native Grasses on a Boulevard

Turf alternatives have grown a lot lately

There’s increased interest in avoiding the traditional Kentucky Bluegrass turf that covers vast acres in the U.S.. But even yards with  No-Mow or Bee-Friendly alternative lawns still typically consist of 90% conventional lawn grass. There are many better options available that come very close to no maintenance. The pinnacle of low maintenance and a low-carbon footprint is Native Grass Lawns.


Because native grass species are so different from conventional turf, there is a lot to learn. We will discuss what a native grass lawn is and how it is different from a conventional lawn. We will also look at why we should consider switching to a native grass lawn. You will learn how and when to install and maintain a native grass lawn, where to get the supplies, plus what to expect. We will also look at optional plants and all native pollinator lawns.



What is native turf? 

Native grasses are grass species that evolved to thrive in our hot and dry growing conditions. Native grass lawns consist of warm-season grass species that thrive in hot climates and experience their most active growth during the late spring and summer months. They are extremely deep-rooted and need very little irrigation.

Native grass lawns are native warm-season grasses that are much lower maintenance than traditional cool-season grasses.  Warm-season grasses do not break dormancy until the soil heats up, which is usually sometime in May. Cool-season grasses wake up in March. There are a variety of native grasses that can be used to create a walkable turf.


Why native turf

Our traditional lawns are made up of cool-season grasses that thrive in lower temperatures, growing most vigorously during the mild spring and fall. This love of cooler temperatures is why they need so much supplemental water.

 

Conventional lawns are high-maintenance monocultures (single species) plantings that are susceptible to diseases, pests, and weedy infestations. These grasses require 1” of water per week. That is 2 hours of irrigation time. On a 1000 sq ft lawn, that is 660 gallons of water, much of which runs off if there is any kind of slope or soil compaction. Irrigated turfgrass is the largest crop, surpassing corn and soybeans. It is an area of 63000 sq miles, which is equal to the size of Texas.


Fertilizer and pesticides are applied at a much higher rate on conventional lawns than what is applied to agricultural fields. Combining the overuse of chemicals with excessive application of water creates the worst-case scenario for contaminating soil and water. 

Lawn grass is the default landscape. Much of the habitat for wildlife, especially pollinators, has been destroyed because of this, wreaking havoc on pollinator populations that are already under a lot of stress. The vast expanse of lawns we see in suburbia is a hostile desert for our hundreds of species of pollinators. These lawns offer no food or shelter, and the water that is present is contaminated with ag chemicals. Many people have rallied around our endangered pollinators, our compromised lakes and streams, by seeking alternatives to traditional lawns.


Where 

Most native grasses suitable for a lawn require full sun. They especially like hot areas with poor soil. Boulevards are a perfect place to remove traditional lawn and install a native grass lawn. Eliminate these hot, dry areas from your lawn and save time and money by placing the right plant in the right place.


How to install a native grass lawn

Installing a native grass lawn is a much different process than conventional turf. There is no native grass sod, so it must be started by seeding. As with any seeded lawn, it will require touch-up seeding to achieve a full turf. Follow the steps below if you want to switch to a native grass lawn:.

  • It is a warm-season grass, so late May through mid-July is best for seeding. Or when soil temps are 50 degrees, and the air temp is higher than that.

  • For the first week to 10 days, be prepared to water daily for 10 to 15 minutes to keep the top 1 inch of the soil damp.

  • Continue daily watering until the grass germinates.

  • Once the grass germinates, over a period of a couple of weeks, cut back to every other day. Watch the young seedlings carefully and don't let them wither. But don't overwater and drown them. Watch patches of seedlings in low spots and reduce watering frequency if they seem to die off.

  • Depending on how hot it is and if the grass seems to be establishing, watering can be tapered off to once every 7 days. Check the soil moisture with a hand trowel after you water to see how wet it is and how deep the moisture goes. If it is dry anywhere below the top inch, give it a good soaking for 45-60 minutes. Warm night temperatures and moist soil help germination, which usually takes 7 to 10 days. If the seeds have not germinated within 15 days, re-sow.

 


There are some great products that make native grass seedings more successful.  Last year, I installed a blue grama grass lawn on a strip of boulevard. This boulevard was solid weeds, mostly crabgrass, Palmer amaranth, and foxtail grass. I sprayed it with an organic herbicide that kills everything you spray. I gently loosened the soil by pushing a shovel in as far as possible and rocking it back and forth, creating a slot in the soil. Doing this once in every sq ft creates many slots for compost and water to enter the soil.


Next, I spread ¼ inch of compost over the area and raked it smooth. On top of this smooth soil bed, Root Thru Weed Barrier was installed. Root Thru Weed Barrier stops plants from growing up through the fabric, but allows roots to penetrate the soil below. I placed an inch of a 50/50 soil compost blend directly on the Root Thru Weed Barrier and raked it smooth. 


Seed is broadcast on the soil compost blend, and covered with EZ Straw ( a clean chopped straw seed protection product). Good quality seed is available from our partners at MNL 

Water was sprayed on the area to get everything to stick to the soil. Then I watered for the first week and once a week after that if it didn’t rain.


The results were amazing! Successful germination and excellent survival of the blue grama seedlings. The turf was full and healthy, and there were very few weeds or bare spots. This season, I will move on to the next phase, planting flowers like blue-eyed grass, prairie violet, and other natives that like it hot and dry. I look forward to having a strip of a Native Grass Lawn for pollinators that doesn’t need mowing, watering, or fertilizing. This lawn is truly very low maintenance!


How to maintain

This is the best news ever! Native grass lawns rarely need water, don’t need to be mowed, or fertilized. Just remove weeds you don’t like,  top-dress with a quality compost, and overseed in the early summer. Hand weeding is the best option for weed management, although now mowing or watering will control some weeds. Mowing high will also suppress some weeds.


Other Species and Variations

There are other species of native plants that are good options for different growing conditions. Buffalo grass, poverty oat grass, June grass, purple love grass, and others are excellent options. There are many species of sedge, with Pennsylvania sedge the most selected.


Flowers that can be direct seeded to create a 100% native bee lawn are blue-eyed grass, violets, calico asters, pussy toes, ground plum, and many others.


What to expect

Weeds and bare spots are common issues when a lawn is seeded. Hand pulling and mowing are the best methods for controlling weeds. There is an iron-based, low-toxicity herbicide called Fiesta that can control broadleaf weeds, but it will kill bent grass (not native) and stain concrete and stone. Schedule a consultation for more info on Fiesta. It is available online through various retailers.


Bare spots happen for unknown reasons. To remedy bare spots, just scruff up the soil, removing any dead vegetation or other debris. Then apply the seed, cover lightly with compost, then with EZ Straw. A brief watering of 3 minutes or so will hold things in place. Then just water if the seedlings wilt.


For more information about Native Grass Lawns, Bee Lawns, or other Alternative Turf options, please reach out to schedule an assessment.

 
 
 

Comments


bottom of page